Restaurants here tend to be for the tourists flush with vacation dollars. For the rest of us, plunking down $25 per person for lunch is just not realistic. Enter "the mobile", enterprising locals serving home style food made just like it's been made for the last 200 years. Yeah, things don't change much when you live on an island. You can choose among baccalau (fish stew), goat water, pig tail, oxtail or bull foot soups. Follow that up with some sides of peas and rice, fried plantains (yum!), fungee (cornmeal mush with okra) or boiled yucca. In a hurry and too hot for soup and stew, you can grab a pate (fried meat pie) filled with chicken, beef or salt fish. If they're set up with a pit barbeque (using oil drums sliced in half and welded to a stand) there's always lechon (pork), brisket and chicken. All in all, you won't pay more than $10 including drinks and cake for dessert. The trick is trying them all out, knowing what days they show up and where, and deciding which cook you like the best. An adventure in eating.